This is a good read that made memories of good times surfing flood over me. I really enjoy knowing that the sport of surfing can bring joy to even people who have been living in a war torn country. I know exactly how that man felt when he took his first ride and stood up, and i am happy that he is enjoying it.
If you have never been surfing i would highly recommend it. I am not a religious person but i have to say if i have ever had a moment where i felt at one with the world, and at peace, it was when i was surfing one day. The waves were glassy, and it started to rain while i was out. The sun was slightly peeking through the clouds and making beautiful reflections off the water. There was about a 4 foot swell that day and catching waves with the people around me all smiling and laughing was really a moment in my life i will not forget. Everyone was in glee that we were surfing in the rain with the nicest slow moving swell i could imagine. It just made life seem so simple. I miss it. I am envious of that Liberian.